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QUESTION: I’m a button-fly guy and lately it’s been tough to find them. Even my ‘go to’ brands seem to be switching to a zipper-fly. Why is this? And what denim brands would you recommend?
Daniel, Halifax.
ANSWER: Unless your ‘go to’ brands can be found in the roomy aisles of your local big box store – where things like fit and cut don’t seem to matter – I’m not sure why you’re having a problem, Daniel. According to Ben from New York’s killer bespoke denim maker 3X1, about 75 – 80 per cent of the quality jeans on the market have a button-fly. While 3X1, for example, does offer zipper-fly as an option, it’s one rarely taken, meaning that your penchant for using two hands instead of one to do up your denim is shared by the vast majority of men.
That said, some brands, like Sweden’s Nudie, use a zipper-fly in their slim and skinny fits, because it tends to sit flatter to the body than a button-fly, which can add a bit of heft. If you’re going for the 80s metal band frontman look, then get used to zippers. If not, here are a few brands worth checking out.
United Stock Dry Goods ($150+)
This Toronto-based menswear company definitely delivers the best bang for your buck, offering quality Japanese selvage denim in a number of flattering fits, weights and washes. Simply, they break in quickly and beautifully.
Baldwin ($200+)
Kansas City-based designer Matt Baldwin was named one of GQ’s 2013 menswear designers of the year and produced a capsule collection for the GAP. Using premium Japanese and American denim that is cut and sewn in the U.S., Baldwin’s fits tend to suit a wide selection of body types and hold up well day in and day out.
3X1 (265+)
The newest creation of denim kingpin Scott Morrison (Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Alexander), 3X1 is quickly becoming the denim to rock. Offering their ready-to-wear collection in six standard fits, you should have no problem finding the perfect pair. If you don’t mind spending the coin and can get to New York, do yourself a favour and book a bespoke appointment. Why? Because is there really anything cooler than having your own personal pattern?
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